Sunday, December 30, 2007

EEEEW


This is what I found on my doorstep today. The biggest, grossest millipede I have ever seen. Of course I screamed, and then I decided I was going to kill it. I grabbed some DOOM, the world's most powerful insect killer, and doused the snake sized insect. To my misfortune, it did not seem too perturbed by the intense shower of nitrates, so I resorted to plan b: pepper spray (don't laugh!). That seems to have done the trick...

In other exciting news, my mom and brother are coming to visit in April! That will be very fun! Until then, I have lots of guests coming in the next few months- a few doctors, our project grant writer and fundraiser, and others. It should make the time pass quickly! I convinced Liz and Kathleen (the other 2 Fulbrighters) to stay here in Blantyre with me for New Year's Eve, so at least we can sit around and miss home together!

Speaking of which, Happy New Year! :)

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Crazy Man

Zach, you will appreciate this:

I was on my way down the dusty road to my house when a man seemed to be approaching my car. He had dreadlocks (unusual for a Malawian), no shirt, and wore torn capri pants. In his hand was a carton of Chibuku ("Shake, Shake") beer - it is beer that comes in a cardboard carton like milk or orange juice. I slowed down to go over a very large speed bump, and he kept approaching my car until he was standing with his thighs touching my car hood. He stared at me like a deer in headlights while I honked my horn several times. He didn't move. I honked again, and motioned for another person on the side of the road to help me. No one would help. With my heart starting to pound, I locked the door and let the car roll a little bit. The man dropped the beer and put his hands on the hood of my car. I couldn't move. (Zach likes to do this to me as a joke when he doesn't want me to leave, except that is funny and this was not). So, I just started to drive, and let the corner of the car brush the guy's leg. I think it pissed him off, so he punched my car window really hard as I drove off. AHH!

That's the story for today. That plus the fact that I bought tons of stuff for the new apartment. Guests start arriving Jan 2!

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Building endurance for medical school I guess...

WHAT A DAY. What I am about to try to do is to give you all a glimpse of the craziest day I have ever had in Malawi. If you get bored, well then, stop reading - and don't volunteer in an area with the poorest nutritional status of a developing country.

We started this morning at 5:30am loading up our truck with all the supplies - milk/peanut chiponde, soy/peanut chiponde, likuni phala (read earlier posts if these foods sound foreign to you), our data cards, measure mats, electronic scales, plastic bags, toilet paper, plastic spoons for eating chiponde, weight-for-height charts, randomization envelopes...the usual list. We started off for Chikweo, a small village to the North-East of Blantyre. Chikweo is part of a larger network of villages called Chipolonga, in a district called Machinga. This is the area of Malawi with the poorest nutritional status in children under 5. We drove the hour drive out to Chikweo and were greeted initially by just a modest number of women with their children slung on their backs. My nurses gave their normal introductions, I muddled through some Chichewa greetings (Hi, my name is Danielle. I am from America. I work with the College of Medicine in Blantyre...they laugh, my accent sucks). What proceeded after this very orderly and warm welcome was mass chaos:

We asked moms to try to make a line at the measure mat, which was situated at the front left corner of the open walled building we were working in. From the measure mat, we wanted them to move to the front right corner for me to weigh the child. With both height and weight measured, I could immediately determine if the child is malnourished, and if so, how severe. This however was wishful thinking. The idea of standing on a line is not only incomprehensible, it is IMPOSSIBLE. So rather than any sort of orderly flow, I had babies being handed to me from the front, left, right and behind! And, despite me standing on top of a table and making an announcement (in English, translated to Chichewa) asking the moms to please, please work with us and stay orderly, women continued to push and push until my table was nearly pushed all the way back against the wall. The crowding caused every under 5 child to join into a cacophonous screaming fest. I'm not talking sobbing, I am talking screeching and wailing and screams that reminded me of Mariah Carey. And what could go better with all those tears than a few temper tantrums, kicking me, pinching me, biting me, scratching me and oh of course - peeing and pooping on me and the scale as well. Great fun, eh?

So what why didn't I simply title this post - The Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad day? Because we enrolled a total of 40, yes, F-O-R-T-Y!!! children in my study. That is huge! First off, for the study - that is a significant number of children added to our total count. For the children, that means that we've reached 40 children who were on their way towards adding to the number of children who are severely malnourished in Machinga. As much as this day was exhausting and challenging, that is pretty damn rewarding.

Anyway, this blast of an afternoon continued from 7:30am until approximately 3:30pm, with an estimated 400-500 children participating in the symphony of screams. From there, we had to take a child to the district hospital for some very terrible skin rash (I won't describe this, it will gross all you non-doctor type people out). From there, we headed back to Blantyre, a 3 hour drive home. You know that you have been in the car too much when you start the day out listening to the soundtrack to Lion King, and then proceed to listen to albums ranging from Celine Dion to Dispatch to Kanye West to VNV Nation. The drive home was at least pretty - the country is so green now and there are neat rows of planting on every last inch of ground. Even along the highway, someone is out with their hoe softening the ground and making mounds to plant their crop. There are thousands and thousands of mangos stacked up on the sides of the roads as well - small yellow ones, larger green ones, huge red ones. Women also make piles of freshly chopped corn stalks and hold the whole stalk out in the road as your car drives by, hoping that one car will stop and buy an ear or two.

After a very jarring ride all over Blantyre to drop all my staff members home at their houses (we came in too late for them to take any public transportation, it was dark), I finally got home at 8:30pm. So, that is about a 15 hour day, or so...and thus the title of this post. So, maybe its not the real 18 hour deal that I hear about from residents, but it was good practice. And guess what, this is a wash, rinse, repeat type work- we resume tomorrow morning at 5:00am.

Now, don't you all wish you were here? Can someone pass the Malawian gin and tonic please?

-dkm
PS. I am not reading this over to proof read it. I hope you made it through the run on sentences, poor grammar, misspelled words and what ever else is sprinkled in. I'm exhausted, I promise to pay more attention next time. :)

Monday, December 24, 2007

Yabwino Christmas!

Ho, ho, ho, hello,

Season's greetings everyone! Things in Malawi are, well, WET. If it were only like 85 degrees cooler, we would be looking at a record breaking white Christmas, but we are having flash flooding instead. It is at times like these that you appreciate the brilliance of having the 4 seasons.

I spent the day today finishing decorating Project Peanut Butter's second apartment/house. I'm actually really excited with how it turned out - deep chocolate brown couches, earthy tones of brick red, greens, golden yellows, and khaki colors. I bought a really nice kitchen table today, a book shelf, mattresses for the 3 beds in the house, hung the curtains, and hired an electrician to install the stove and the fridge. It was quite a productive Christmas Eve! Visitors of PPB will arrive on January 1, 3 and Dr. Manary on Jan. 5 so I had to spend significant time today to be sure everything was ready when they arrived in the new place.

Tonight, my Fulbright friend Kathleen and I cooked a nice dinner of chicken caccitore, rice and of course, mango salsa (what would a meal be here without a 0.007 cent mango accompaniment?) The other Fulbright, Liz, is out in Neno village for the evening, and we miss her!

I will write again soon! Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night.

-dkm

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Holiday Cookies and Hysterectomies

Nothing can put you in the holiday spirit more than snow on the ground, Salvation Army Santa's ringing bells at the mall, and the window displays at Saks and Bloomies. But, since I am sporting a watch tan after just one day in the sun and the Salvation Army delivers here rather than collects, I have turned to baking cookies and listening to the soundtrack of Love Actually to remind me that it is in fact December. And what could bring family (me and Ella) together more than...getting Ella spayed. At least there will still only be 2 stockings up this year, mine and hers, and no new kittens. (ha...just kidding, we don't really have stockings...)

This past week has been pretty hectic as we are opening up 4 new centers for my research in the next two weeks or so. Tomorrow will be another trip out to the villages for the night, soon to be part of the normal weekly routine. The research is moving along, but this will help increase enrollments so that I can stay on schedule to finish the study on time. The goal is 1200 children and we are probably just a bit more than halfway through enrolling.

Other than research work, I went to a gospel "concert" last Friday night that was less than exciting but at least a change of routine for Friday nights. The performers all had recorded their own albums, but the show consisted of them telling the DJ which track number to play and the singer lip syncing with the CD. It did not sound like the gospel you'd think of in America, but more like music you'd hear on the beach in the Caribbean sipping on some frozen drink. The only difference is that the lyrics to those songs probably mean, "Don't worry, keep drinking" and the lyrics here were more like, "Start worrying, stop drinking". Still, it was fun to experience the Malawian music scene.

I will post again before the holidays, but in case you don't read again until after - Happy Holidays and a Healthy New Year!

Thursday, December 13, 2007

251152

That is exactly how many miles my car had on it when I pulled into the gas station this afternoon. Look at that number, perfect symmetry. Well, maybe if it were 251125 then it would really look like someone held a mirror up between the 1's. Anyway, it amused me.

I have spent the last two days mainly in the car - driving out to the far villages of Namandanje. It really felt like we were driving to the edge of the world when we got to the village of Chikweo, but that was nothing compared to the second leg of our trip this morning, out to a place called Ngokwe. I am sure GoogleEarth does not have Chikweo or Ngokwe, but if it did, you'd find Ngokwe about 8km from the border of Mozambique on Malawi's south eastern border. (Mozambique surrounds Malawi from the south west around the bottom of the country and almost all the way to the north east side of Malawi. Tanzania and Zambia make up the northern borders.) We met with the most senior health officers to introduce the soya program to their centers. We will be adding these two, plus two others (Ntaja and Mlomba) for a grand total of 11 health centers participating in this study! Talk about community health connections :)

I have to give Sheena a ride to the bus station. More updates to follow!

-dkm

Sunday, December 9, 2007

wrap up of weekend 1

The rains are VERY heavy; the bugs are crawling from every crevice and corner; my kitten is taking over my pillow every night...but I'm happy to be back. This weekend was really very relaxing- Saturday I dropped Laurel off at the airport, did some yoga, and had dinner with my friend Kathleen (one of the 2 other Fulbrights, who now lives in Blantyre about 1 mile from me). We watched one of my all time favorite movies, The Shawshank Redemption, and ate lentils for dinner. Then, (thanks to MEP) I stayed up allll night watching episodes from 24. This morning, I woke up late, picked up Kathleen, did some errands and we went for a nice run to the President's house. Dinner at Liyaka's and now here I am giving you the run down of a quiet weekend in Blantyre.

This afternoon, the boys whose father works around my compound came by asking if they could sweep my porch. I let them, gave them a small payment and made peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for them. By the time they were done, it was pouring, so I invited them inside to play cards and a marble game called Bawo. They are all very adorable - Yohanne, Antony, Valero and Mphatso. I had fun, and even showed them a few magic tricks, which they loved!

Tomorrow it is back to work - 4 am wake up, 4:45am departure. I'll pretend to go to bed, and watch some 24 instead...